OMOIDE YOKOCHO, TOKYO

AT A GLANCE

What Is Omoide Yokocho, and Is It Worth Visiting?

Omoide Yokocho, usually translated as “Memory Lane” or “Piss Alley”, is a compact block of restaurants and bars right beside the west side of Shinjuku Station. The local association describes about 80 businesses, including some 60 bars and restaurants, and more than half of those restaurants specialize in yakitori or motsuyaki (grilled offal).

The appeal is in the details: lanes barely wide enough for two people to pass, lanterns over the doors, smoke drifting off the grills and counters so close to the cooks that you watch your skewers being turned. It is still a working dining district rather than a museum, so it suits people who enjoy informal food and a bit of a squeeze. If cramped spaces and cooking smoke are not your thing, a quick walk through may be enough.

Detail	What to know
Location	Beside the West Exit of Shinjuku Station, about 2 minutes on foot
Size	About 80 businesses, including some 60 bars and restaurants
What to eat	Yakitori, motsuyaki (grilled offal) and offal stew, plus eel, ramen and other dishes
Best time	Evening for the lantern-lit atmosphere; each restaurant sets its own hours
Time to allow	About 1 to 2 hours for a look around and one meal
Costs	Varies by restaurant; check for an otoshi, seating charge, minimum order or time limit
Payment	Varies; bring cash as a fallback
Good for	Food-focused evenings, small groups and anyone curious about post-war Tokyo

HOW TO GET THERE

Where Is Omoide Yokocho? Map & How to Get There

The district sits on the west side of Shinjuku, squeezed between the station and the big roads that run past its north side. Several lines stop at Shinjuku, including JR, Odakyu, Keio, the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line and the Toei Oedo Line, and the official access page lists them all.

From Shinjuku Station

Leave through the West Exit and follow the signs; the association’s own map puts the lanes about 2 minutes on foot from there. The catch is reaching the West Exit in the first place, because Shinjuku Station is enormous and the time on a map starts from the exit, not from your platform.

We learned this the hard way. On our way to see the 3D cat billboard, we decided to take a “shortcut” through the station, ended up knee-deep in corridors looking for the right gate and only found our way out about an hour later.

Finding a Restaurant

The lanes are small, but many restaurants look alike from the outside, and some sit upstairs. The association’s English district map marks each business; note that it dates from 2021, so treat hours on it as a starting point rather than a promise.

💡 Car’s Tip: Pick the exit you need before you arrive at Shinjuku, and give yourself a buffer. Take it from someone who spent an hour inside the station.

HISTORY

The History of Omoide Yokocho

The district’s layout and its menus both come straight out of post-war Tokyo. Knowing a little of the story makes the cramped counters and the emphasis on grilled offal make a lot more sense.

A Black Market After the War

According to the official history of the district, the area around Shinjuku’s west exit was in ruins around 1946, and an informal market grew up there, with stalls separated by little more than single boards. Around 1947, a crackdown on controlled goods hit stalls selling flour-based foods such as ramen. Offal was not controlled, so many stalls switched to grilling it, and the dish caught on.

That is why yakitori and motsuyaki still dominate today. Around 1959, redevelopment for the railway and a new terminal building cleared about 300 shops and stalls, and only the strip that survives today was left. The tiny, back-to-back counters you squeeze into now are a direct legacy of those market stalls.

The 1999 Fire

On November 24, 1999, a fire broke out in the lanes and damaged roughly a third of the shops. Most rebuilt within about a year, and the association now marks November 24 as Omoide Yokocho Day to keep the memory alive and raise awareness of fire safety. The association says it runs fire drills twice a year and manages cigarettes and charcoal as a whole street, which is also why smoking in the lanes is not allowed.

What About the Nickname?

You may also hear the older nickname “Piss Alley,” usually explained by the lack of toilets in the early days. It is a memorable name, but Omoide Yokocho is what the district calls itself, and there are proper shared toilets these days.

OUR VISIT

Our Experience in Omoide Yokocho

We came through on day two in Tokyo, in April 2025. Jet lag had won the night, we woke up really late, and after a big breakfast and our hour-long detour through Shinjuku Station, we finally made it into Memory Lane in the middle of the day.

In daylight it is a maze of narrow alleys with tiny restaurants and open grills. Many of the buildings look a bit run-down, but the stalls are wonderfully traditional, and that contrast is a big part of the charm. Paper blossom decorations hung over the lanes, and with fewer people around it was easy to stop and take photos.

One of my favorite moments was a quick exchange with a few locals sitting outside one of the bars, which ended with a cheerful “kawaii” (cute) and a lot of smiling on both sides. If you want to know why that word comes up so often in Japan, my Japanese Kawaii Culture Guide explains it.

Then the sky turned gray and it started to rain. I insisted the cloud would pass (“This too shall pass!”), Cara pointed out it was gray across the board, and Tokyo made it very clear we had used up our sunshine for the day. For the lantern-lit, smoky version of these lanes, come back after dark.

WHAT TO EAT

What to Eat in Omoide Yokocho

A visit here is simple: walk the lanes, look at the menus and prices posted outside, check whether there are seats free, and choose somewhere to eat. One restaurant is plenty for a satisfying evening; the association itself suggests that two or three stops is the classic way to enjoy it, but hopping between places is entirely optional.

Yakitori: Grilled Chicken Skewers

Yakitori covers far more than chicken breast on a stick. Expect thigh, chicken meatball (tsukune), skin and various organs such as liver and gizzard, often grilled over charcoal. You do not have to order unfamiliar cuts just because they are on the menu; plenty of people stick to thigh and meatballs and have a great time.

Many places let you choose between salt (shio) and a sweet soy-based glaze (tare). Check whether a menu price is for one skewer, a pair or a set, and confirm the cut if you have any dietary restrictions.

Motsuyaki: Grilled Offal

Motsuyaki is grilled pork or beef offal, such as intestines, heart or tongue, and it is the dish the district was built on after the war. It is the most traditional thing to order here, but it is an option for the curious rather than a test you need to pass.

Stews, Noodles and Other Dishes

Motsunikomi, a slow-simmered offal stew, is a warming classic alongside the skewers. Beyond that, the district includes places serving eel, ramen and Chinese dishes, gyoza, sushi, curry and coffee, so not every restaurant has the same menu. If someone in your group is not into skewers, there are still options, and my What to Eat in Japan guide covers more of what we loved eating across the country.

CHOOSING A RESTAURANT

How to Choose a Restaurant in Omoide Yokocho

Rather than a ranking of where locals supposedly eat, these are a few places sorted by what you want to eat and how much space you need. The details come from the association’s shop profiles, several of which date from 2021, so check current menus, hours and payment before you go.

Saitamaya — Skewers and Offal Stew

Saitamaya is known for large yakitori skewers grilled over oak charcoal, along with motsunikomi (offal stew). It suits a first visit if you want the classic combination in one place.

• Specialties: Yakitori, offal and offal stew.
• Space: Up to 30 people, with an upstairs party room.
• Payment: Listed as cash only in the 2021 profile.

Saitamaya’s association profile

Dai-ni Horaiya — Grilled Offal and Simmered Dishes

Dai-ni Horaiya describes itself as the first offal grill in the lanes, using binchotan charcoal and a long-aged sauce. It is a good choice if you want to try motsuyaki properly, with simmered dishes on the side.

• Specialties: Motsuyaki, yakitori, offal stew and seafood.
• Price example: An assortment of five charcoal-grilled offal skewers was listed at approx. ¥880 in November 2024.
• Space: Up to 50 people.
• Payment: Cash and PayPay.

Dai-ni Horaiya’s association profile (in Japanese)

Kabuto — Eel Skewers

Kabuto serves eel and only eel: every part of it, from the head and fins to the liver and tail, skewered and grilled over charcoal. Skewers arrive without you needing to order, and the association notes a limit of three alcoholic drinks per customer.

• Specialties: Eel skewers.
• Space: Around 11 seats, so expect to wait or squeeze in.
• Hours: Afternoon into early evening; closed Sundays and holidays in the 2021 profile.

Kabuto’s association profile

Gifuya — Ramen and Chinese Dishes

Gifuya is a Chinese diner and bar serving house-made ramen in miso, soy sauce, salt or spicy versions. It opens from the morning and has room for a larger group, which makes it an easy pick if not everyone wants skewers.

• Specialties: Ramen and Chinese dishes.
• Space: Up to 55 people.
• Payment: Listed as cash only in the 2021 profile.

Gifuya’s association profile

Yasube’e — A Larger Option for Groups

Yasube’e is one of the bigger restaurants in the district, serving yakitori, offal stew, seafood and eel with sake from around Japan. Its profile lists capacity for 64, and it accepts cards, which helps if you are not carrying much cash.

• Specialties: Yakitori, offal stew, seafood and eel.
• Space: Up to 64 people.
• Payment: Cash, credit and debit cards, and UnionPay.

Yasube’e’s association profile

How to Choose for Your Group

Most places here are small, and not every business is a six-seat counter, but you cannot assume that the empty stools you spot are free together. Groups of four or more should aim for one of the larger restaurants, such as Yasube’e, Gifuya or Dai-ni Horaiya, rather than hoping a tiny counter can make room. If you are two people, the small counters are where the atmosphere is.

COSTS

Omoide Yokocho Prices, Otoshi and Payment

There is no single price for the district: every restaurant sets its own menu and rules. Plan around what your chosen restaurant actually charges, rather than a universal price per skewer.

Otoshi and Other Charges

An otoshi is a small starter that may arrive without you ordering it, with a per-person charge added to the bill. It is a normal izakaya custom rather than a scam. Some places charge a table or seating fee instead of, or as well as, an otoshi, and the association’s guide for first-time visitors notes that some shops ask each customer to order a drink and a dish, and some limit each group to 90 minutes.

Before you sit down, check the posted prices and ask about these charges. A minimum drink order does not automatically mean alcohol, so ask whether a soft drink or tea counts.

Payment

Payment methods vary from shop to shop. In 2021, the association said about 60 percent of shops accepted only cash; some now take cards or mobile payment, but bring cash as a fallback. Finish and pay at each restaurant before moving on to the next.

WHEN TO GO

Best Time to Visit and Opening Hours

Evening is when the lanterns come on and the grills are busiest, which is the version most people picture. There is no district-wide opening time: on the association’s map, restaurants typically open sometime between late morning and late afternoon and close between about 11 PM and 2 AM, and many have a regular closing day such as Sunday or Monday.

A daytime walk like ours is quieter and better for photos, with many shutters still down. For a meal, allow about one to two hours, check your chosen restaurant’s closing day in advance, and keep an eye on the last train if you are staying out late.

ETIQUETTE

Ordering, Etiquette and Photography

The lanes are tiny and the businesses are working restaurants, so a little awareness goes a long way. Most of it is common sense; see my Japan Dos and Don’ts guide for the bigger picture.

Ordering at a Small Counter

Look for a menu with clear descriptions and prices before you sit down. Some restaurants have English menus, and a translation app helps with the rest, but confirm important ingredients with staff if you have allergies or dietary restrictions.

Keep bags off spare seats, do not block entrances while you decide, and follow any posted time limit. Ask before bringing in food from elsewhere.

Smoke, Smoking and Toilets

Expect cooking smoke, and dress accordingly. Smoking is banned in the lanes and only allowed inside shops that permit it, so check a restaurant’s policy if smoke bothers you. Shops on Nakadori, the main inner lane, share a communal toilet, and the association suggests going before it becomes urgent, because a line can form quickly.

Photography

Taking photos as you walk through is part of the fun, but follow posted signs and ask before photographing diners, staff or the inside of a restaurant. The association’s photography and filming rules require prior permission for street photography and filming projects, and tripods and flash are not allowed, so do not assume unrestricted access.

FOOD OR DRINKS

Omoide Yokocho or Golden Gai?

Question	Omoide Yokocho	Golden Gai
Main reason to visit	Small restaurants and grilled food	Small bars with different personalities
What to plan around	Restaurant choice, menu and available seats	Bar choice, seating and cover charges
Station area	West side of Shinjuku	East side of Shinjuku
Food or drinks?	Primarily dining, with drinking options too	Primarily bars, with some food options
My suggested use	Dinner before Golden Gai	Drinks after dinner

Omoide Yokocho is the stronger starting point for a food-focused evening, while Golden Gai is mostly about tiny bars and drinks. They are on opposite sides of Shinjuku: Memory Lane by the west side of the station, Golden Gai on the Kabukicho side to the east.

You can easily fit both into one evening, with dinner here and drinks over there, but there is no need to do both. My Golden Gai Guide covers what this area is all about, related cover charges and how to choose a bar.

VLOGS

Watch My Tokyo Vlogs

My Tokyo Part 2 vlog near the top of this guide includes our walk through Memory Lane. These others show the rest of our Tokyo trip, including a night in Golden Gai.

KEEP EXPLORING

More Japan Guides

Watch the rest of my Tokyo series on my YouTube channel, and browse my Japan Travel Guide for every destination.