3-Week Japan Itinerary

AT A GLANCE

My Suggested 3-Week Japan Itinerary at a Glance

My 3-week Japan itinerary gives Tokyo eight days, the central Japan road trip five, Kyoto five and Osaka two, with day 21 kept for the Shinkansen back to Tokyo and your flight home. The road-trip block is deliberately the busiest part. If you prefer fewer hotel changes or want to hike between post towns, use the slower alternatives later in this guide.

Watch the vlog · All of TokyoTOP Things to Do in TokyoMy all-in-one Tokyo guide, with every must-see spot from our eight days in the city.Watch on YouTube →

Is Three Weeks in Japan Enough?

Three weeks in Japan gives you room for the main cities and a countryside section without changing accommodation every day of the trip. It doesn’t mean you can fit every famous destination into the same vacation. On this route, the extra time goes to Tokyo and central Japan rather than Hiroshima, Miyajima or a second mountain region.

This 21-day Japan itinerary suits someone who wants neighborhood wandering as well as smaller places between the cities. If your main aim is a straightforward rail trip, I would simplify the middle section. If the post towns are what excite you most, give them another night rather than adding more stops to the same five days.

Days	Plan	Suggested overnight base
1–8	Tokyo neighborhoods, food and city exploring	Tokyo · 8 nights
9	Shinkansen to Karuizawa, soba for lunch, then drive to the Fuji area	Kawaguchiko area · 1 night
10	A short walk in Aokigahara and Mount Fuji viewpoints, then drive north	Iiyama or a Jigokudani-area base · 1 night
11	Jigokudani snow monkeys, then Narai-juku	Narai-juku · 1 night
12	Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku, then Nagoya	Nagoya · 1 night
13	Nagoya Castle and Nara, then Kyoto	Kyoto · first of 6 nights
14–18	Five full days in Kyoto	Kyoto · remaining 5 nights
19–20	Two days in Osaka	Osaka · 2 nights
21	Shinkansen back to Tokyo and fly home	No overnight included

BEFORE YOU GO

Where to Stay and What to Book Before You Go

The bases on a 3-week Japan itinerary matter more than the hotels themselves, so choose locations around the journeys you will actually make. In Tokyo, being near a useful station is worth more than a hotel that looks central on a map but involves several transfers. In Kyoto and Osaka, check the final walk from the station, particularly if you have luggage or a stroller.

The Most Popular Areas in Each City

• Tokyo: Shinjuku, Shibuya, Asakusa, Ueno, and Ginza or the Tokyo Station area.
• Mount Fuji: the Kawaguchiko area, close to the lake and the main viewpoints.
• Nakasendo: Narai-juku, Tsumago-juku or Magome-juku, if you want the old streets after the day visitors leave.
• Kyoto: Gion and Higashiyama, Downtown around Kawaramachi and Shijo, the Kyoto Station area, or Arashiyama for quieter evenings.
• Osaka: Namba and Dotonbori, Shinsaibashi, Umeda around Osaka Station, or Tennoji.

For this plan, book the short countryside stays first: the Fuji area, your northern Nagano base and Narai or its surroundings. Smaller places have fewer fallback options, and we learned that twice. Near Fuji we ended up in an Airbnb-style place with a Korean host who came across as very angry, and in Narai Cara went from inn to inn until one family-run ryokan Minshuku Shimada finally had space. This turned out to be one of our favorite stays.

For reference, we stayed at Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku in Tokyo and the Kyoto Granbell Hotel in Gion, and I would book both areas again. Before your first onsen, read my Japan Dos and Don’ts guide for bathing etiquette and useful everyday customs.

One night on the road trip we also ended up in a smokers’ hotel, which was so weird and felt like the early 2000s all over again.

What I Would Book in Advance

Book the countryside accommodation and rental car first, especially the Fuji area, northern Nagano and Narai. We found somewhere to sleep without reservations, but searching took time and left us with fewer choices.

Confirm car collection and return before booking connecting trains, then reserve timed attractions such as teamLab Planets and any particular restaurants. Booking windows differ between venues. Arrange things earlier around Golden Week, and keep alternatives for rainy days or a cloud-covered Fuji.

BEFORE YOU GO

Getting Around on This Japan Itinerary

We took the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Karuizawa, then explored central Japan by car with our friend Nomus, who arranged the rental. Karuizawa is on the northern route, rather than the Tokaido line towards Kyoto, so check JR East’s Hokuriku Shinkansen information before booking.

For this suggested itinerary, collect the car around Karuizawa on day 9 and compare returning it in Kyoto after Nara on day 13. Confirm the return location, opening hours and any one-way fee. You do not need a car for the Kyoto and Osaka sightseeing days, so keeping it longer means extra rental and parking costs.

Check luggage space, insurance and child seats if needed. Driving documents also depend on the country that issued your licence; my Getting Around Japan guide explains the permit, translation and transport arrangements to check.

Journey	What readers need
Tokyo → Karuizawa	Train journey, departure station and car-collection arrangement
Karuizawa/Miyota → Fuji area	Approximate driving time, excluding stops
Fuji area → Iiyama/Jigokudani base	Approximate driving time and realistic departure expectations
Jigokudani → Narai	Driving time plus the monkey-park approach walk
Narai → Tsumago → Magome → Nagoya	Separate journey legs
Nagoya → Nara → Kyoto	Driving time, parking and sightseeing limits
Kyoto → Osaka	Choose stations according to accommodation
Shin-Osaka → Tokyo → airport	Separate train and airport-transfer legs

WEEK ONE · TOKYO

Tokyo: 8 Days

Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, Akihabara, Asakusa, Ueno, Ameyoko

I loved having eight days in Tokyo because its neighbourhoods feel like different cities. You can enjoy a shorter visit, but the extra time let us explore, return to favourite places and occasionally slow down.

You can spend the morning exploring a temple or quiet garden, the afternoon browsing fashion and character shops, and the evening eating in a tiny restaurant beneath neon signs. Neighborhoods such as Asakusa, Harajuku, Shibuya and Shinjuku each offer a different atmosphere, so exploring Tokyo rarely feels repetitive.

Food is another huge part of its appeal, from ramen counters and sushi restaurants to beautifully decorated desserts and surprisingly good convenience-store snacks. Add anime, gaming, shopping, distinctive architecture and an extensive public transport network, and Tokyo offers plenty for travelers with very different interests.

Tokyo’s everyday surprises caught my attention immediately: a high-pitched ringing nobody else seemed to hear, toilets with control panels and built-in bidets, and strangers constantly calling Noah “kawaiiiiii.” My Weird Things in Japan guide covers more of what surprised us.

Day 1: Arrive, Then Shibuya Crossing at Night

Get to your accommodation, drop your bags and explore nearby. A meal and a short walk are enough after a long journey, so arrange a transport card, keep the hotel address handy and check the route back before heading out.

Our own first day was not exactly flexible. After transit chaos and robot baggage carts in Incheon, we landed, sorted our SIM cards and walked into the rain with transparent umbrellas. We then waited two hours in line in that rain for soufflé pancakes, which were worth every minute, and escaped into a five-floor Taito Station arcade where Cara got completely addicted to the claw machines.

My attempt to win a can of Pringles was a total failure. There was a first bowl of ramen, a slightly desperate mission to buy diapers in Japanese, and Shibuya Crossing after dark, which we crossed 30 to 40 times because it was simply so much fun. We finished with yakiniku and our first onsen at the hotel, which comes with rules you should read before you go.

💡 Car’s Tip: You do not need to copy that first day. If you land in the afternoon, Shibuya Crossing at night is the one thing I would make the effort for.

Watch the vlog · Day 1Tokyo Part 1: Shibuya Crossing, Arcades & Soufflé PancakesOur first 24 hours: a two-hour pancake line in the rain, a five-floor arcade, Shibuya Crossing at night and our first onsen.Watch on YouTube →

Day 2: Shinjuku, Omoide Yokocho and Meiji Jingu

Jet lag won the night, so we woke up late, had a big breakfast and decided to take a “shortcut” through Shinjuku Station to find the giant 3D cat billboard. We only found our way out about an hour later. Look it up as Cross Shinjuku Vision on Google Maps before you go, because once the cat pops out of the building, it is so worth it.

From there we wandered into Omoide Yokocho, where a quick exchange with a few locals outside a bar ended with a cheerful “kawaii” and a lot of smiling. Then it started to rain. I insisted the cloud would pass, Cara pointed out it was gray across the board, and my Omoide Yokocho guide explains why you should come back after dark anyway.

At Meiji Jingu we did the coin ritual, found the wall of decorated sake barrels and got completely soaked. Nearby in Harajuku we visited HARRY, a hedgehog café, where the first group was fast asleep and one from the second group bit me. We ended the day at a conveyor-belt sushi spot, where I over-ordered the fatty tuna way too many times.

Watch the vlog · Day 2Tokyo Part 2: The 3D Cat, Omoide Yokocho & Meiji JinguThe 3D cat, Omoide Yokocho, Meiji Jingu in the pouring rain, a hedgehog café and conveyor-belt sushi.Watch on YouTube →

Day 3: Akihabara

We started with pancakes at Flipper’s and then spent the day in Akihabara. I thought I would see it in an hour or two; plan at least four hours, because whole buildings are covered in anime billboards and the shops go up floor after floor. Maid cafés were on almost every corner, and Cospa was a fun stop for anime and cosplay merchandise.

We also visited M’s, an adult store, which turned out to be one of the most hilarious stops of the whole trip. Skip that one if you are with kids. We refueled with udon, which is exactly the kind of uncomplicated lunch a day like this needs.

Watch the vlog · Day 3Tokyo Part 3: AkihabaraBreakfast at Flipper’s, then Akihabara’s anime towers, Cospa and the M’s store.Watch on YouTube →

Day 4: Harajuku, Takeshita Dori and Shibuya

Start with a 7-Eleven smoothie and Shibuya by day, where we met a cute shiba inu and I tried my first ever matcha shot. On Takeshita Dori I tried on a one-size kawaii skirt and broke the zipper, fell in love with a Chicago vintage store that was way over my budget and came out of a purikura booth with cat ears and enormous eyes.

The rainbow cotton candy was huge, and Noah demolished an expensive one in about two minutes, so we followed it with a crepe from Santa Monica Crepes. Those outfits made us feel like little dolls, and people kept saying “kawaii” to Noah all trip; my Kawaii Culture guide explains why cute is so everyday in Japan.

Day 5: Asakusa, Senso-ji and Tokyo Skytree

Asakusa and Tokyo Skytree sit close together, which makes this an easy day on the east side. We walked under the Kaminarimon lantern, down Nakamise-dori and up to Senso-ji’s main hall and pagoda, with a stop at the incense burner. Up on Skytree, clouds hid Mount Fuji, but the endless city was still impressive.

If you want an observation deck, book it separately and leave yourself a realistic arrival margin. We finished with tonkatsu back in Shinjuku, which became my number one dish of the whole trip.

Watch the vlog · Days 4–5Tokyo Part 4: Takeshita Dori, Tokyo Skytree & Senso-jiTakeshita Dori, giant cotton candy, purikura, Tokyo Skytree and Senso-ji, ending with tonkatsu in Shinjuku.Watch on YouTube →

Day 6: Ueno, Ameyoko and Nezu Shrine

We loved browsing Ameyoko’s shops and food stalls, and bought an extra suitcase because we had already shopped too much. Afterwards, Ueno Park offered a quieter break. Tokyo felt comfortable to explore, but I would still keep valuables with me rather than leaving them unattended.

Nezu Shrine is a short walk away, and its tunnel of red torii gates was lined with blooming azaleas when we visited. It is a calmer counterpoint to the market and a lovely way to end the afternoon.

Day 7: teamLab Planets and a Slower Afternoon

teamLab Planets hit me harder than I expected. You walk barefoot through water and mirrored rooms full of light, one room made me emotional, and afterward I could not even walk straight. Book tickets well in advance and give it a morning of its own, because it is a bit out of the way.

Keep the afternoon loose after that. A rainy afternoon is the perfect excuse for another arcade, and we tried our luck at ME Tokyo in Shinjuku as well as Taito Station.

Watch the vlog · Days 6–7Tokyo Part 6: teamLab Planets, Ameyoko & Nezu ShrineAmeyoko Market, Ueno Park, the torii gates at Nezu Shrine and the art rooms at teamLab Planets.Watch on YouTube →

Day 8: Shibuya by Day and a Night in Golden Gai

Shibuya Crossing by day feels completely different from the night version, like organized chaos where nobody bumps into anybody. We spent 300 yen in an arcade and spotted the giant Akita dog peeking out of a clock frame above the street. Use the afternoon to confirm tomorrow’s train and car collection and decide what you need within reach during the drive.

We had kept postponing Golden Gai for days because we were simply too tired. When we finally took a taxi over, we found a tiny whiskey bar with a great bartender and met all kinds of people, and it became one of the coziest nights of the trip. My Golden Gai guide covers cover charges and etiquette; small bars won’t suit every group or every family day.

💡 Car’s Tip: Eat before Golden Gai, because we were starving by the end of the night. And don’t take a shortcut out through the alleys with the low-hanging electricity cables like we did.

Watch the vlog · Day 8Tokyo Part 5: Shibuya by Day & Golden GaiShibuya Crossing by day and our night in a tiny Golden Gai whiskey bar.Watch on YouTube →

For a wider choice of neighborhoods and attractions, my Things to Do in Tokyo guide lets you swap any Tokyo day of this 3-week Japan itinerary for something closer to your interests. If food is your priority, my What to Eat in Japan guide covers everyday meals and the convenience-store snacks for the journeys ahead.

THE COUNTRYSIDE · FIVE-DAY ROAD TRIP

Central Japan: 5 Days

Aokigahara, Mount Fuji, Jigokudani, Nagano, Nakasendo post towns & Nara

The road trip is what makes this 3-week Japan itinerary different from the usual city route. This section follows our travel order, including the move from Karuizawa down toward Fuji and then north again toward Nagano. It is not a straight line across Japan, so check each driving route against your accommodation. Our Japanese friend Nomus, who we met in Argentina, joined us for this part of the trip.

We covered a lot in five days. Day 9 is mainly a travel day and day 10 combines Fuji sightseeing with a long onward drive, which works only if you accept that you can’t spend a full day at every stop. The slower alternative later in this guide is the better choice if you want more time outdoors.

Day 9: Tokyo to Karuizawa, Then the Fuji Area

Take a suitable Hokuriku Shinkansen departure from Tokyo to Karuizawa and collect your car. Our bullet train was fast, spotless and left exactly on time. Karuizawa itself was only a quick stop for food, but what a stop it was.

As soon as we arrived in this area of Karuizawa, Nomus took us to Jigonaya, a roadside soba restaurant in Miyota, and it served maybe the best meal I have ever had in my life. The handmade buckwheat soba came cold with crispy tempura and a nutty walnut dipping sauce, and I still think about it.

We drove the final stretch to Kyoto in about an hour. Several restaurants we tried allowed smoking, which did not work with Noah, but we eventually found somewhere to eat near Gion’s main street.

Day 10: Aokigahara, Mount Fuji Viewpoints and the Drive North

We started with a short walk in Aokigahara. Knowing the forest’s reputation gave it an eerie atmosphere, but I also found it surprisingly relaxing; stay on the marked paths and keep the walk short if, like us, Fuji is the main event of the day.

Fuji did not cooperate at first. We spent an hour or two moving between viewpoints before the clouds finally cleared at the Mount Fuji Distant Worship Site, also known as Tenku no Torii, and we were elated. Later, at Arakurayama Sengen Park and Chureito Pagoda, the cloud had moved back in and we could not see the mountain at all.

That is why I wouldn’t count on a particular photograph; my Mount Fuji guide covers the places we visited. The onward drive toward Iiyama makes this a long day, so if Fuji is a major priority, add a second night here and take a day from Tokyo.

Watch the vlog · Days 9–10Nagano Road Trip: Shinkansen, Aokigahara & Mount FujiThe Shinkansen to Karuizawa, our soba lunch, a walk in Aokigahara and our wait for Mount Fuji to appear.Watch on YouTube →

Day 11: Jigokudani Monkeys and Narai-juku

Visit Jigokudani in the morning, allowing time for the approach walk and the park. Check Jigokudani Monkey Park’s visitor information before setting out. The monkeys are wild, so sightings are not guaranteed, and April does not necessarily bring the snowy scenes seen in winter photographs.

From Jigokudani we drove about two hours south to Narai, and my first reaction was that it looked exactly like the pictures, with its long street of dark wooden buildings. We loved it so much that we decided to stay the night. That turned into an adventure, because we had booked nothing and every inn Cara tried was closed or full.

At the very last one, the owner had rooms but was expecting a group of seven, so we agreed to come back at 7 p.m. The group never showed up, and we got tatami floors, futons, a little tea room and a small onsen to ourselves. It was also Nomus’s birthday, so we surprised him with an apple cake in the tea room, all of us in traditional Japanese wear.

💡 Car’s Tip: Book this night in advance so the evening can be about enjoying the town rather than searching for somewhere to sleep. We were very lucky.

Day 12: Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku, Then Nagoya

Sleeping on a futon was an experience, but Cara and I woke up feeling completely broken, and the pillows were tiny. Breakfast made up for it: rice, miso soup, grilled fish, tofu and egg, the first time I had ever eaten fish for breakfast. Noah was the star of the breakfast room, because the owners were completely obsessed with him.

Continue to Tsumago and Magome, leaving time to walk around each town. These were stopping places on the historic Nakasendo between Edo, now Tokyo, and Kyoto, and wandering through Tsumago genuinely felt like being transported back in time. In Magome we shared oyaki with vegetable and eggplant fillings, passing them around, and tried gohei-mochi.

This day covers visiting the towns, not hiking the full route between them and returning to your car; my Nakasendo Trail guide explains both options. We reached Nagoya late and ended up at an Aussie barbecue place, because everything else had closed.

Watch the vlog · Days 11–12Nakasendo Trail: Narai, a Ryokan Night, Tsumago & MagomeThe snow monkeys at Jigokudani, our last-minute ryokan night in Narai, Tsumago and Magome.Watch on YouTube →

Day 13: Nagoya Castle, Nara and Arrival in Kyoto

Nagoya Castle was an unplanned stop we could not resist. The tower keep is currently closed, so check Nagoya Castle’s visitor information rather than planning to climb it. Keep the visit focused, because Nara and the journey to Kyoto still need time.

In Nara, focus on the park area and choose a temple if time allows. The deer are wild animals, so follow the Nara Prefecture deer guidance and keep food and belongings under control. We spent a good while with them and walked away completely deered out. Also, don’t be surprised if you get headbutted by a deer. It happened to me several times and let me tell you, these deer are super cheeky and want whatever’s in your pocket.

The line for the Great Buddha at Todai-ji was so long that we skipped it, so go early if seeing it matters to you; the official Nara guide helps you choose what fits the time you have. We then drove the last stretch to Kyoto in about an hour, and finding dinner was harder than expected, because we kept walking into restaurants where people were smoking, which did not work with a baby, and we ended up at a hibachi grill near the main street of Gion.

Watch the vlog · Day 13Nagoya & Nara: Nagoya Castle, Deer Park & Todai-jiNagoya Castle and Hommaru Palace, then the deer and Todai-ji in Nara before the drive to Kyoto.Watch on YouTube →

WEEK THREE · KYOTO AND OSAKA

Kyoto: 5 Days

Gion, Higashiyama, Fushimi Inari, Arashiyama & Central Kyoto

You arrive in Kyoto on the evening of day 13, which gives you five full days here. After the short countryside stays, it is a good point to unpack and slow down. We squeezed Kyoto into two very packed days from our base in Gion, and in hindsight I would have taken much longer, which is why this 3-week Japan itinerary gives it five.

Day 14: Gion, Yasaka Shrine and Higashiyama

Our first day in Kyoto was rainy. Cara had had a strange dream the night before, so a visit to Yasaka Shrine to shake off the bad luck felt like the right way to start. Gion was our base, and its wooden townhouses, teahouses and Hanamikoji Street are all within walking distance of the shrine.

From Yasaka, continue up through the historic streets of Higashiyama toward Kiyomizu-dera. Start early for a quieter walk, check photography signs and respect private entrances.

Day 15: Fushimi Inari and a Slower Afternoon

Make Fushimi Inari the main outing and decide how far to walk according to the weather, your footwear and everyone’s energy. We spent a few hours there, wrote our wish for good health and happiness (I misspelled happiness) and hung our little offering at the shrine. It was busy, but this place is special.

Keep the afternoon for a meal or a return to an area you enjoyed. We had lunch at Rigoletto in Gion, where three sips of a cocktail were apparently enough to make us feel our age.

Day 16: Arashiyama and the Sagano Train

Give Arashiyama its own day rather than squeezing it between sights on opposite sides of the city. We had been told the bamboo grove would be underwhelming, and yes, it is basically one path, but I loved walking under the bamboo with the sun coming through. A man was selling hand-painted postcards that I wanted to take home.

Torokko Arashiyama station sits at the end of the bamboo trail, so we boarded the Sagano Romantic Train a few minutes later and sat in the open car. It was not very romantic with my sister, but the views over the river gorge were lovely.

Watch the vlog · Days 14–16Kyoto Part 2: Gion, Fushimi Inari & ArashiyamaGion, Fushimi Inari, the Arashiyama bamboo grove, the Sagano train and dinner in Pontocho.Watch on YouTube →

Day 17: Nishiki Market, Downtown and Pontocho

Explore central Kyoto with a market visit and time for a proper sit-down meal. At Nishiki Market we tried grilled scallops, a chicken skewer and a Kobe beef skewer of approx. ¥2,000, my first ever taste of Kobe beef. Afterward we took the subway back to Gion, even though walking would have been perfectly possible; we were being lazy.

Finish with dinner in Pontocho, one of Kyoto’s most atmospheric places to eat once the lanterns are lit. We ended our second Kyoto day there, laughing with a chef outside one of the restaurants.

Watch the vlog · Days 14 and 17Kyoto Part 1: Yasaka Shrine, Nishiki Market & GionYasaka Shrine, Nishiki Market and dinner on Shijo-dori on our rainy first day in Kyoto.Watch on YouTube →

Day 18: A Flexible Kyoto Day

This is the most flexible day of the 3-week Japan itinerary, so keep it for a garden, temple or neighborhood you haven’t explored yet, such as Kinkaku-ji in the north of the city. It is also a useful day for laundry, a quieter afternoon or shopping that didn’t fit earlier, because three weeks feels better when basic tasks are part of the plan.

Our own Kyoto visit didn’t include this day, so treat it as breathing room rather than a checklist. My Things to Do in Kyoto guide has more ideas for filling it.

OSAKA AND HOME

Osaka: 2 Days

Umeda, Osaka Castle, Dotonbori, the bay & Shinsekai

Osaka closes this 3-week Japan itinerary with two days of food, neighborhood wandering and city views. We actually squeezed it into one very full day trip from Kyoto, in week four of our trip when I was chronically tired, and I am still so glad we didn’t skip it. Two days lets you enjoy the same highlights at a sensible pace.

Day 19: Umeda, Osaka Castle and Dotonbori

Choose a train from Kyoto based on where you are staying rather than assuming you need the Shinkansen. Start at the Umeda Sky Building, where Cara announced it was the tallest building in the world (it is not), and the love hearts everywhere for couples meant we skipped that corner.

Osaka Castle looks a lot like Nagoya Castle, which was my first thought fresh from the road trip, but the huge stone walls and moats really impressed me. We went straight from there to Izakaya Toyo, the stall from a Netflix food show; Cara failed to mention that the chef shouts at people, but he turned out to be such a nice guy and gave us a big high five when he heard we were from Holland.

Spend the evening in Dotonbori, eating your way down the street. We had ramen at Kinryu, crab at Kani Doraku (we spent a while debating if you are supposed to eat the skin) and a ten-yen-coin pancake with cheese inside, and judging by my reaction, I am a real Dutch girl when it comes to cheese.

Day 20: The Bay, a Ferris Wheel and Shinsekai

If Universal Studios Japan is a priority, give it this day; it is an optional addition, not part of our trip. Otherwise, keep the day slow and head to the bay for golden hour, when we rode the Tempozan Ferris Wheel in a transparent cabin while Cara asked whether they had sick bags like on a plane. I was not scared, and it is the Osaka moment I would recommend most.

Finish in Shinsekai after dark. Tsutenkaku was not illuminated when we visited, but we still enjoyed exploring and never felt unsafe there. My Things to Do in Osaka guide has more ideas if you have extra time.

Watch the vlog · Days 19–201 Day in Osaka: Dotonbori, Shinsekai & Osaka CastleUmeda Sky Building, Osaka Castle, Izakaya Toyo, Dotonbori, the Tempozan Ferris Wheel and Shinsekai, all in one day.Watch on YouTube →

Day 21: Return to Tokyo or Fly Home from Kansai

For a Tokyo return flight, take the Tokaido Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka, then continue to Haneda or Narita. The fastest trains take roughly two and a half hours to Tokyo, excluding station and airport transfers. Leave a generous buffer; for an early flight, return on day 20 and stay overnight.

Sit on the left-hand side towards Tokyo for a chance of seeing Mount Fuji, weather permitting. Before booking flights, also compare arriving in Tokyo and departing from Kansai International Airport. Finishing near Osaka removes the return train journey and leaves day 21 for your airport transfer or a little more exploring.

ADJUST THE PLAN

Would I Change the Order or Pace?

For a Slower Trip

To slow this 3-week Japan itinerary down, take two days from Tokyo, then add a Fuji night and a Nakasendo night. That gives you more flexibility for the mountain and more time for the post towns or a properly planned walk. You could also visit Nara as a day trip from Kyoto to make day 13 easier.

For a More Direct Route

Our order reflects our trip, including Karuizawa. If it isn’t a priority, look into traveling from Tokyo to Fuji first, then toward Nagano and the Kiso Valley before continuing to Nagoya and Kyoto. Compare the actual driving routes, car locations and accommodation first, because I would not present the Karuizawa–Fuji–Nagano sequence as the shortest possible route.

For a Trip Without a Rental Car

Without a car, I would simplify the countryside section: eight days in Tokyo, two around Kawaguchiko, two for Magome and Tsumago, one transfer day to Kyoto, five in Kyoto, two in Osaka and a final travel day. That still gives you 21 days.

Leave out Karuizawa and Jigokudani first, and visit Nara during a Kyoto day. If the monkeys or Narai are priorities, shorten Tokyo instead. Check the complete train and bus connections before booking accommodation, particularly between Kawaguchiko and the Kiso Valley. My Getting Around Japan guide and Nakasendo Post Towns Guide explain the options.

When to Follow This Japan Itinerary

We visited in April. Spring can bring blossom and pleasant city walks, but bloom timing varies by region and year, and when we arrived in Tokyo the cherry blossoms were already gone. It also rained a lot that week, so pack an umbrella and don’t assume one set of clothes covers the whole route.

Accommodation around popular destinations needs advance planning, particularly around major holidays, and JNTO’s April travel guide gives useful seasonal context. For Fuji views and outdoor stops, build flexibility into your schedule instead of expecting the weather to match the photo that inspired the trip.

BUDGET

How Much Does Three Weeks in Japan Cost?

I believe I spent approx. €4,000 on our month in Japan (including tickets), but we did everything: all the activities, good hotels, amazing food, and we took taxis quite a lot as well. That is my own rough figure for a month rather than a verified breakdown, so use it as a reference point and price this 3-week Japan itinerary for your own dates and group size.

Accommodation, travel dates and the number of people sharing the car will make the biggest difference to this itinerary’s cost. We enjoyed good hotels, plenty of food, activities and quite a few taxis, so our spending should not be treated as a minimum budget.

Use the following as a checklist for pricing your dates. It is not a record of what we paid.

Expense	Include	Cost
Accommodation	20 nights; check included meals	€1000
Food	Meals, snacks and drinks for 21 days	€750
Intercity trains	Tokyo–Karuizawa, Kyoto–Osaka and any return to Tokyo	€150
Local transport	Metro, trains, buses, taxis and airport transfers	€100
Rental car	Countryside rental, insurance and return fees	€0 (Nomus paid)
Attractions	Your chosen paid experiences	€400
Internationl Flights	Price separately from costs within Japan	€1,250
Extras	Shopping, laundry, mobile data and contingency	€350

Is the JR Pass Worth It for This Itinerary?

Do the calculation before buying. The nationwide pass covers eligible rail travel, not five days of car rental, fuel or parking, and city transport may involve operators outside its coverage. That makes a long pass something to justify with actual fares rather than a default purchase for three weeks in Japan.

Compare your eligible journeys against the current official JR Pass prices, including supplements and excluded legs. My Getting Around Japan guide explains the decision in more detail.